The Good, the Bad, & the Solution: A Quilter's Guide to Thread
Choosing sewing/quilting thread is often a balancing act between what we want and what our machines want. In this article, we’re going to list common types of threads, the pros and cons of each, and solutions to problems that may arise while working with each.
100% Polyester
(Superior So Fine and Isacord).
What we like about it:
Breaks seldomly
Low bobbin lint
Strong & smooth
Lots of color variety
Pre-wound bobbins work well
Great for heavy use and machine laundering
Works well with dense batting and batik fabrics
What we don’t like about it:
Can be difficult to secure starts and stops due to its slick texture.
How to resolve this issue: Take an extra beginning and ending stitch so they do not unravel.
Poly-Wrapped Polyester
(Superior Threads, Omni A&E and PermaCore).
What we like about it:
Breaks seldomly
Low bobbin lint
Stronger than cotton-wrapped
High heat resistance
Does not stretch easily
Great for heavy use quilts
Thick appearance makes a bold statement on quilts
What we don’t like about it:
Can be difficult to secure starts and stops due to its slick texture.
How to resolve this issue: Take an extra beginning and ending stitch so they do not unravel. If you notice flat lining, try increasing your needle size.
100% Cotton
(Aurifil, Gutermann, Connecting Threads, Mettler).
What we like about it:
Huge variety of plies, weights and colors
Easier to secure the beginning and ending lines of stitching.
What we don’t like about it:
High breakage, especially in dense batting or bulky seams.
Heavy bobbin lint
Can dry out in arid climates
How to resolve these issue: Adjust tension, may need to loosen top tension significantly. If using in bobbin, loosen this tension as well. Use different combinations of top and bobbin thread, a thicker top thread should use a thinner bobbin thread. Use liquid silicone (Sewers Aid) and store thread out of light in a closed container.
Polyester-Trilobal
(Glide, Superior Magnifico, Superior Rainbows).
What we like about it:
Low to medium breakage
Little bobbin lint
Very shiny, each strand shaved into triangle shape creating more surface area to reflect light and increase luster
What we don’t like about it:
Can fray / break more often as it passes through the needle’s eye due to twist (happens more when stitching right-to-left)
Can be difficult to lock beginning and ending stitches
How to resolve these issues: Adjust your tension. If your machine has a 3-hole guide by the tensioner, try changing the path to a weaving path.
Cotton-Wrapped Polyester
(Gutermann, Omni, Coats, Singer).
What we like about it:
Similar strength and durability of 100% polyester
Can easily lock beginning and ending stitches
Core is polyester, outer is cotton wrapped giving the thread a more matte appearance
What we don’t like about it:
Heavy bobbin lint
How to resolve these issues: Machine will require more frequent cleaning.
Monofilament / Invisible
(Nylons: Aurifil, Essence, YLI Wonder Thread, Polyesters: Superior MonoPoly, Sulky, Madeira)
What we like about it:
Low breakage - stretchy
Low bobbin lint
Nylon is very fine and soft to touch
Polyester holds up to heat and will not get brittle
Good for stitching in the ditch
What we don’t like about it:
Nylon may melt with hot iron / hot dryer use
Polyester feels stiffer and is shinier, may cause undesirable light reflection
Nylon may get brittle with age or extended UV light exposure
Could cause grooves in needle and / or thread guides
Cannot be used in both top and bobbin at the same time. Can only be one or the other.
How to resolve these issues: Purchase .004 diameter for quilting. Store out of sunlight. Since this thread stretches as it winds on the bobbin, load bobbin 1/2 full for L (standard) bobbin and 1/4 full for M (big) bobbin. Loosen top and bobbin tension, may need to loosen top thread considerably. To check tension: pull top and bobbin thread out about 1 foot, if tightly curled tail, tension is still too tight (should have a gentle wave to the thread).
Rayon
(Sulky Rayon, Robinson-Anton, Madeira, Arc)
What we like about it:
Shiny, huge color selection
What we don’t like about it:
Breaks easily
Limited use (primarily used on embroidery machines)
How to resolve these issue: Loosen top tension. Use liquid silicone (Sewers Aid) to help reduce friction. Use light weight thread in the bobbin. If using on quilts, first load quilt top with stabilizer to do decorative stitches. Then use a more stable thread type for the quilt sandwich.
Metallic
(Superior Metallic, Isacord, Gunold, Kreinik)
What we like about it:
Beautiful and decorative finish
Metallic threads wrapped around nylon core will have more elasticity, making them easier to use.
What we don’t like about it:
Breaks easily
Not good for use in bobbin
Can cause grooves in needle and / or thread guides causing thread breaks.
How to resolve these issues: Loosen tension considerably. Check thread guides for wear or grooves and replace if necessary. Use a lightweight bobbin thread (not cotton). Treat thread with liquid silicone (Sewers Aid). Invisible thread in bobbin works well with metallic thread due to elastic properties.
Serger
(Maxi-Lock, Superior Sergin General, Madeira Aerolock)
What we like about it:
Ideal for working with lighter weight fabrics like knits and formal materials.
Helps keep edges and hems from fraying.
What we don’t like about it:
Breaks easily
Limited use (primarily used in sergers machines for finishing garments).
How to resolve these issues: Adjust your tension. Slow your machine speed. Not recommended for longarm machines or other high speed machines.
Many threads are purpose made, and most can be used for other projects. Most of the time, it is about striking a balance between tension, needles, and machine speed. Some other issues may be caused by excess lint that the thread creates, or higher wear and tear on thread path parts for certain threads. Although this isn’t a complete guide to thread, these tips have helped us through most problems we have run in to regarding thread.